The beauty of Matera

During the festival is the best time to see Matera in all its splendor, but you can enjoy the exotic sassi any time, and can even spend the night in one: the fantastic Hotel Sassi (Via San Giovanni Vecchio, 89; tel. 0835 33 10 09), in the heart of the Sasso Barisano, has comfortable, modern rooms which are actually renovated sassi. For a taste of hearty Basilicata fare in large portions, try La Terrazzina (Via San Giuseppe, 7; tel. 0835 33 25 03), which is just off of Piazza Veneto and has a great view from the terrace. The only difficult thing about Matera is getting there, for it is the only regional capital in Italy not served by the national railway. Still, it is only a 1 1/2-hour drive from the coastal cities of Bari and Taranto, and 4 hours from Naples. Ferrovie Apulo-Lucane buses and trains run to Bari from Piazza Matteotti.

High Times Cannabis Cup

It's harvest time, and time for 'High Times' magazine's annual Cannabis Cup, where all things related to wastedness are celebrated. There are banquets, bands, product expos, cultivation seminars and a competition where hundreds of judges - including you, if you so wish - try to ascertain which of the hundreds of wicked weeds are the wickedest. The event is scattered (as are the minds) all over town but is focused around the Melkweg and the Pax Party House. This year's theme is 'Beat Poets'.